Best "How to Buy a Used Car" Guide & Checklist, Car Buying Tips, Tricks and Secrets to Buying a good reliable used car.
I) Overview of how to buy a car, SUV or truck:
This page is a Buying Guide of Helpful tips and secrets on how to select, test, evaluate, negotiate and close when looking to buy a car, SUV, pickup or other vehicle. It is a List of Top buying Concerns and Tips in chronological sections that prepare you to negotiate from a position of knowledge and strength. (Your use of this site constitutes acceptance of Disclaimer below; Read before proceeding. This is not a guarantee.)
These Car-Buying Tips teach you a mindset to buy, where to look and how to plan and then take you step-by-step through testing and evaluation of the vehicle. We emphasize mechanical condition over appearances and body integrity. This assumes you would rather continue down the road more than you would enjoy sitting broke-down beside the road looking good!
Where to Start:
If you want to look at cars or pickups for sale, start off right:
How to use this website:
First read it all to become familiar with the main steps of buying. Decide to not be bashful nor afraid to thoroughly check vehicle condition and performance. Anyone can test telltale main mechanical aspects, even if you never have. Each 10 minutes of proper testing and negotiating can save you hundreds to thousands of dollars. That is a huge rate of pay!!Read this web page and print it out to take with you to check off your progress.
Introduction to Car Buying:
Buying a Used Car is not so risky if you know how. These tips and secrets can help you buy a reliable used car, or at worst one with nothing major wrong.
I) Mindset
1) To begin, cast from your mind any preconceptions that you need a car newer than four or five years old, unless you have money to burn. It is not so much the age, but the condition that matters. A little older car in good condition can be a bargain. And sometimes something small wrong can make the price very low, enough to fix it. Even if it does not start, listening for normal cranking sound can determine a lot. But most of us want the car to at least start.
2) Decide to first educate yourself and shop hard. Investing 3% of the purchase price in time and effort can save you easily 20-30% over the time you own the car. That means you can spend about $100 worth of time-study and shopping to buy a $3000 range car, or $200 to buy a $6000 vehicle. For most people that is a little more or less than one full work day.
3) Go into battle armed with this checklist, and foremost check the title and paperwork carefully BEFORE YOU PAY or put a DEPOSIT. Save yourself some time by asking up front "Do you own this and does it have a clear title?" Sometimes another person believes they have a legal interest, such as in a divorce.
The author has owned scores of cars, pickups and big trucks, other vehicles and hundreds of pieces of small construction equipment. He overhauled (mostly) his own first car bought at 12 years old by making all "A"'s ($1 per A-real money in 1962). He and his family never lost money on a vehicle or machinery except on one 1974 Pontiac Grand Prix---sold quickly because it used so much gas. He and his immediate family have owned about a hundred cars including a 1936 Ford Coupe V8, 1947 Ford Coupe, 1950 Ford, 1962 Rambler, 1965 English Ford, 1957 Renault 4CV (he overhauled), 1956 and 1958 Buick Roadmasters, 1956 Chevy, a Corvair, 1960, 65, 77, 81 and other Fords and Chevy pickups and a series of "slant-6" dodges and Plymouth Valients, various Nissans, Volkswagens, Chevies, Towncars, Cadillac's, Mazda, Toyota and International and Ford Diesel pickups and trucks ---all sold at higher prices than bought, with usually little or no work ever done to them, and most way over 10 years old.
He used these tricks to use most of those vehicles for years and sold most for more than he paid, saving tens of thousands of dollars and almost never breaking down. You can too!
Basics:
There are a few absolute basics in buying a used car:
II) Selecting Models and Preparing to Buy
1) Don't buy from a dealer unless it is a brand they don't like on their lot (like a Toyota on a Chevy lot), or unless they are having a huge discount used car sale to clear inventory, such as end of year late December, etc.. Watch out for sharks
2) Go more by quality of maintenance and type of owner(s) than age and miles.
3) If it costs over $3000, locate a reputable mechanic to look at it AFTER you give it a preliminary examination, unless it is a great buy and can't wait, then examine it yourself carefully.
4) Make a list of your own priorities, trying to emphasize "reliability", "economy", "resale value" and your "real needs", not just what you think is "pretty".
5) Begin always with the library and "Consumer Guide", "Consumer reports" and JD Powers ratings - before you ever look at cars, making a list of about 10 models with high reliability, especially in the engine, driveline, suspension and electrical categories. Hardware and body electrical are not as important.
6) Depending on the age range you seek and milage on the meter range you want, put more or less weight on the "repair cost" factor. Some foreign cars are more reliable, but parts are usually two to four times as expensive as a Ford or Chevy. That is roughly a wash, as fewer breakdowns may justify more expensive parts.
7) When you have made about 10 of the most reliable selections from the Buying Guides, review your budget and examine a Blue Book for prices, if possible, or some local Car Trader or other classifieds to see prevailing prices.
8) Now comes a real buyers secret that can really save you money if you want to drive a car several years with very few problems: Research "Rally" winners on Wikipedia. For example these were results from 2001 through 2005:
- 2001 Toyota Celica GT-Four
- 2002 Peugeot 206 WRC
- 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 7
- 2004 Ford Focus RS WRC 03
- 2005 Subaru Impreza WRC2005
Cars that win rallies are TOUGH. They tend to survive not-uncommon mistakes like hitting curbs or hitting big chuck holes, and even running low on oil or over-heating from a broken hose (none of which are your car likely to survive).
The author had an '88 Mazda 323 that he later learned was a famous Ralley car, and it proved to be the toughest most reliable, even than the Teutonic Plymouth Valiant Slant-6. It gives you a feeling of comfort and confidence to know you have a car that beat rough terrain and hard roads, so that if you keep fluids in it will likely last you at least 10 years.
Very important however is Dealer support and parts availability in your local auto store. This is where Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan and Mazda excel. The exotic Peugeot 206 may be a cool car, but it costs a lot, few mechanics can work on it, and parts are likely very expensive and unavailable without long waits for an older model. Mazda was great, because they had parts ready to go for an '88 in 2011. Check on these things BEFORE you buy. You'll be happier.
9) Now that you have narrowed your prospective list to about 6 models from about 3 or 4 brands, it is time to become a patient tough buyer. Know the market, know the prices and know that someone is a "motivated seller", meaning no matter the prices--- they NEED MONEY NOW and may accept almost any reasonable offer, even 20% off of what they are asking.
Remember: It does not hurt to ask, or it only hurts about $4 worth of pain to save about $1000. On making offers, start well below what you will pay, about halfway from what you will pay, such as if they want $10, 000, say "would you consider $7500 for it?". When they hesitate, that means they are thinking and a bit desperate. If they seem insulted and answer quickly "no way!" give them a couple of minutes. Expect to make about four "runs" at it, the last being very slow to offer. "Hmm well, OK, maybe $8000?". Your target is about $8500 to 8800.
I go into this early here to get your mind set on being a patient, tough buyer. Few cars have no flaws and bargaining is worth the effort, unless it is absolutely perfect. Don't run the car down, but show some concern on things like noises (you should) and scrapes, broken handles, etc.
III) The Actual Vehicle Buying Stage
Now the real buying begins. Preferably go with a friend to help watch the exhaust as you start it and load the engine with the brake on. Tell the friend to not be directly behind or where they could get hurt if the brakes do not hold..
WEAR NO LOOSE CLOTHING, SCARF, JEWELRY, LONG SLEEVES OR LONG HAIR (tie it up). You will be looking into a running engine compartment. NOTHING should dangle near belts.
You are going to ALWAYS do the basics of car buying, beginning with:
Take a recorder. Have it running. Ask the Owner if knows of anything wrong with it. He is obligated to tell you of anything important or dangerous.
WALK UP.
10) FIRST,
11) From the back look down the tire line for misalignment with the front tire, and while at the back, look into the exhaust pipe. Preferably it is from beige to greyish to dark grey. Very black and "sootie" or very whitish grey can be too rich or too lean a mixture. You will come back to the exhaust pipe. It is the heart of your evaluation.
Under the hood:
12) Be sure the engine has not been started. If it has, be suspicious. Test by putting hand on an engine cover and feeling for heat, or carefully touching an exhaust manifold. (caution)
13) If it is hot, DO NOT open the radiator cap... YET. Just take your time and look all around the engine compartment for
14) Pull out the dipstick and smell and examine the oil. Slightly dark is OK, but not almost black or gummy, definitely not if it is grimy or tarry. Also if it is very thin, sniff it for smell of gasoline. Gas in oil is not so great. Worst is MILKY!! --- look out. That likely means a cracked head or bad head gasket or even a cracked block. (be careful after a severe winter when the car is old, owned by someone not too clever about cars who may have failed to put anti-freeze that last hard winter).
15) Before the car is started, when possible if not real warm, or using a big rag if warm (for safety), very slowly turn the radiator cap while shaking it and pushing down and releasing every few degrees of turn until it loosens. NEVER just walk up and turn the radiator cap. It can burn you badly. Many people warm up the car before you come, if it is hard to start cold.
When you finally get the cap off, examine the coolant/water carefully. It should be near the filler top and should look like anti-freeze.
- A pale water-like appearance with little color or whitish milky is a warning.
- Not very full is a warning to look further.
- Put finger in to feel coolant, if not hot to feel if there is any oil or fuel.
- Oily or milky (oil in water) is bad. (Big problems if Oil in coolant or Water in the Oil)
GET INSIDE (or your Partner/helper).
16) Get in and look around for damage.
Crucial Start up (Start Cold and Start Hot !) Caution if already hot.
17) Now your partner comes in, or have the owner seller start it while you stand behind with good light (bring a flashlight) to watch the exhaust on start up. If you have a partner, one can start it and gun the engine a little right on start up for a few seconds.
- Blue smoke in volume is bad.
- Black smoke in volume is not so good but may be fixable-you might get a better price.
- Splatters of water with steam is not good, but a small amount, a few drops right at first, if the ambient outside air is cold (zero to 50 degrees) may be just condensation which should reduce after a few minutes, but usually still shoots a few drops when the engine is gunned.
- Pulsations of smoke are usually not good, at mid-lower speeds to idle.
18) Listen for Start up Noise and Oil Pressure Rate. Hollow knocks are bad. Loud tapping is not great. (some clanking on gunning may be a fan hitting the shroud or a cracked flywheel). Fainter tapping for about 15 seconds is not great but not bad if it quiets down. Ideally, there is NO engine noise or almost none, cold or hot. (Ford 302 5.0 Liter V8's are an exception - many have wrist pin slap for about 5 seconds on start up).
At the same time, see how long it takes for the oil pressure light to go off, or reach 20 PSI. It should not exceed 2 seconds.
19) Warm Up - After it runs one minute, let it idle. Don't let anybody touch it. Listen to the engine. It should be smooth and quiet with very little shaking, prefeably none. If it is cold, it will take up to 5 minutes to slow down to idle.
20) As soon as the engine slows down, turn it off. Wait a few seconds. Start it without touching the gas pedal. It should start and run smoothly, perhaps a little fast then slower.
21) Move from the hood area back to the exhaust pipe and continue to watch and feel. Placing a bare palm, or palm with a cloth over it over the exhaust can tell whether there are pulsations. Ideally there are NONE or almost none detectable--- it would be smooth, strong and steady. If you apply pressure with the hand it will likely die (unless it is a big engine or pickup). Some mild pressure as it warms up tells you if it pulses much. Popping pulsations are not good. Weak pulsations need to be tested with a piece of paper over the exhaust. The paper should not pop back and forth as held about a quarter inch from the pipe end. If it does, the engine may have a bad valve.
DRIVE TEST - LOADING the Engine, Transmission, Suspension, Steering and Brakes:
22) After the engine is started the second or third time, before it is completely warm, sit in the driver's seat and put it in gear (be sure no one is at back or front) with brake on. Feel and watch the engine whether it starts missing or shaking.
23) Remaining in gear for a couple of minutes, tap the pedal and see if it jumps and if the engine dies. It is not very abnormal for a cool engine to die, but usually it should not. At the same time, watch for smoke.
22) All this time of warm up, you are also testing transmission and brakes. Brakes should not fade, or fade very very little with steady pressure when running. The tranny should shift and hold and pull well.
23) While waiting, turn the steering wheel a turn or so left and right. It should be quiet and smooth and turn fairly easily. In a Ford, it may "whine" as the pump lacks fluid because of a common leaky power steering hose (many 85 to 98 model Fords)- it is not a big deal- add fluid and fix leak).
24) Warm Engine Test: After total of about 10 minutes, in neutral, gun the motor a few times, allowing it to come to full idle. It should not die, but once maybe is not too bad.
At this time, you observe for smoke. Ask the owner to gun it a little for you, explaining how.
25) With no one in the driver's seat, again look under the car for any drips. A drop of power steering fluid from a Ford is normal. Oil dripping from the engine is not great.
26) At this point, a little bit of slightly black smoke might be fixable or not serious. Even the faintest of slightly blue smoke will sometimes clear up, if the vehicle has been sitting a long time or has a fixable/adjustable fuel mixture richness problem.
27) This is a good time to check the transmission fluid. Always smell it too for burnt or degraded smell. That might be remedied by a change of fluid, about $79, if the vehicle has over 100, 000 miles or used in very hot climate. Check the level.
NOTE: Vehicles from very hot climates like Texas through Arizona are subject to faster failures of rubber and hoses, and to over-heating. One over 14 years old should be carefully checked. Some Mazda, Toyota and Nissan may be exceptions, going as much as 23 years.
DRIVE TEST:
28) This is a continuation of the test for-- smoothness, power, quietness and lack of smoke. You are testing the engine, transmission, suspensions, steering and brakes.
Find an area where you can go slow and accelerate to pretty fast, preferably on a highway up to 70mph.
Check for noises, sluggishness, vibrations, cutting out, reving up between shifts, (transmission slippage-weak slow shifts), and for suspension
29) The main engine smoothness power test is to drive about 25 mph idling for at least 10 seconds on level ground or slight upgrade and ease the pedal way down over about 10 seconds, the first third of which within about 3 seconds, the first 2/3 of pedal within 6 seconds.
The vehicle should immediately accelerate smoothly and strongly (unless it is a big car, like an old Towncar). At about 30-35 mph and 6-7 seconds and 2/3 pedal it should downshift and jump ahead in "passing gear", pulling to 50 mph in a few seconds as you push the pedal to the floor. If there is little traffic, try to look out the back for smoke as you "floor it". When the car is warm, after running about 20 minutes, if possible do that test again. (The engine may "cut out" or stutter, but have decent power anyway. Cut-out is usually needing tuning or replacing filter or plug wires.)
30) At 50-65 mph watch for shaking, pulling, shimmying (which may be just bad tires) and listen for noises. test the brakes at least once, near emergency stop (warn riders). The brakes should not fade or pulsate. If they fade or pulsate, deduct about $300-$500 off your offer and tell why.
FINAL ENGINE TESTS:
31) Final engine tests: Pull into the sales place or drive and immediately gun the engine to look for smoke again. Let the engine idle-see if smooth. Pop the hood.
32) Blowby Test: Idling, look again at the engine. Find the oil filler cap. Remove it. (caution-NO sleeves!) The engine must be hot or fully warm and just driven. Puffs of smoke or whitish smoke pouring from the filler cap is a sign of some wear or emission controls imbalance or a cracked block or head, especially if the engine shakes (misses). A small amount of faint smoke on an older vehicle is NORMAL. But a "very visible" amount or plume is a sign of wear, and puffing of smoke is a sign of compression leakage. (that is the kind of engine that won't "pull" hard on the acceleration test above).
33) Compression test: This is important. Sitting in the driver's seat, watch the oil pressure light or gauge. There are two tests:
34) Watch the temperature gauge, if any. It should be normal (likely below half).
35) Re-start and turn off the engine a few more times. It should start quickly and stop quickly, and watch the oil pressure each time. Let it idle with the hood up. Go back and put a finger on the engine cover. If best it will still be very smooth, no or almost no perceptible shaking or pulsations and quiet. It will be fairly hot under the hood, but check again for signs of excessive heating.
CAUTION: DO NOT try to remove the radiator cap when hot.
EVALUATION of the Vehicle:
If most of the tests went well, it is likely a good car. If all the tests are good, and appearance is adequate, I would buy it if the price is reasonable and the body is good and never been in a wreck. Windows can be a deal-breaker for some people. Old Fords and Towncars were among the worst on windows, which is too bad because engines were good and most parts were cheap.
If it had some slight black smoke or just ran a little rough but was quiet and otherwise ran pretty well, I'd take it to an expert mechanic for further study, IF the price is good. Likewise if it seemed to have minor brake issues or a very slight leak that looks like power steering fluid, I'd take a chance or swing by a garage for an opinion and quote.
Weight Transmissions heavily as a buying factor: Be EXTRA CAREFUL about transmissions, that the fluid is good, that it acts correctly, shifts sharply and pulls well at mild idle and DOES NOT LEAK. Transmissions are expensive.
V) Your "GO --- NO GO" Car Buying Decision:
You are near a decision. Now for the Body, Instruments, Doors, Windows, Accessories, Heater/ A/C.
FINAL INSPECTION:
IF this seems like a "GO" mechanically, it is then time to review the accessories and hardware:
BODY, HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES:36) During all this, you should have tested some of the accessories and hardware, handles, A/C or heater, the radio, studied the gauges, etc. Now is the time to carefully test each one by one. Be especially careful to check heater and A/C. If no A/C in hot climate, deduct about $700 from offer and say why. Heater a little less ($300).
37) Check and ask about electrical problems. Ask if there have been any problems or anything that does not work. Check all instruments, lights and electric windows (all), seat , mirrors, etc.
38) Check in and around the back seat for filth (ok), drug or drunkenness evidence or of messy children or pets in the car. (look in the cracks of the seat.). Check ash trays, Deduct accordingly. (DO worry about drug residues or paraphanalia! )
39) Open trunk and look for how messy or torn up. Look for evidence of repairs, engine parts, spilled oil and fluids, body repair paint or body filler and make sure all jacks, tools and tire are present. Add or deduct or be cautious. (look in trunk and under hood for evidence of repainting (which is OK) but then be alert for wreckage and body work)
40) Inspect body lower panels and in trunk and feel for repairs, Bondo filler, look for retouched paint, especially near fenders and under doors.
41) Fit: A better car body (Toyota, Mazda, Acura, Honda) holds its doors fit and shape and the handles work and the windows seal well with no air leak noise at speed, even after 15-18 years. During the road test, try to have rear windows up and front down at low speeds, then all up at high speeds. Listen to noises and air leaks and rattles.
Possible Bargains - Small things wrong
You can be lucky if you are smart and know noises or the mechanic that helps you is honest and finds a minor thing wrong that seems worse than it is. This does not happen often, but it can be a real money saver. Things like tires with knots or our of balance, bad spark plug wires (1997 Full Size Ford and others), bad or plugged injector, water in gas, plugged fuel filter, minor leaks like power steering hose, etc. can be easily fixed. Sometimes a bad noise can be a cracked flywheel or starter dragging (Chevy 305 V8's had that sometimes). Even wrist pins like on 5 liter 302 Fords were often quite servicable but sounded bad on start up. A good mechanic knows.
MILAGE - Miles on Vehicle:
If your prospective car made it this far, Mileage on the car is a main negotiating point on price and whether to buy.
The rule of thumb for decades was that 12,000 miles per year was average. But in many cities and metroplexes, the distance of commuting has increased. In some cities too, commuting is not the best type of miles on a transmission and drive train (differential, drive shafts). In hot climates, afternoon commutes can decay hoses and cables on some models so that 12 to 14 years is getting near time for some replacements. Many vacuum hoses are cheap, but things involved with fuel injection and others may cost to replace. Still those are insignificant compared to replacing a transmission. So, an average 10 to 12 year old car will have about 120,000 to 150,000 miles. You can interpolate to see if the one you are looking at is advanced or behind in miles per year. Some "little old lady" may only put 6,000 per year, so her 12 year-old Ford Focus might only have 75,000 miles and as a Rally winner might be THE BUY.
If the car passed the tests with flying colors, the milage is not as major an issue, but if milage is high, over 120,000, try to use that anyway to bargain. Most people think that 80,000 to 120,000 is a fair to lot of miles on a car.
Most people think a car with over 150,000 miles is just looking for trouble. Fewer prospects will pay a good price. But if it passes the tests and was owned by an older couple or someone who regularly maintained it, then it could be solid at even 180,000 miles. If you really need a car, and it tests out, even with 200,000 miles, a few cars have a little life left, of up to 100,000 more miles. Just plan to spend a little money on it for belts, leaks, hoses or accessories. The decision varies also a little by climate where extreme heat would make me set a limit about 20,000 miles lower than in cooler climate.
But assume and bargain like 20,000 miles is all that is left in it if it has around 150,000 or more miles. That might mean paying 4 to 10% of new price, depending on how many miles (inversely to miles).
For example, a 15 year-old Toyota Camry, whose parts are high, but which can last 320,000 miles and are nice and luxurious, at 160,000 miles, you might argue that you can only hope for 20,000 to 30,000 miles, and if it is a $30,000 car, then about 10% of $30,000 is $3000. On a car like that, you should keep a repair savings account of about $1200 handy, in case it needs brake work. But if you paid $3800, you might be doing well if it was clean and maintained. If it was the 4th owner and a bit abused, you might cut that to $2500, for example. (this was calculated without even looking up the prices) (now, looking up prices, I see Kelley Blue Book 1997 Camry, $4,341- $4,516 on Dec, 2011). So, such a target of $3500 is very do-able.
MECHANIC INSPECTION:
Again, the need is based on whether the tests above are clear and decisively showing solid, smooth, quiet, powerful and smokeless, or some questions about some of that.
Whether an independent test is needed also depends on the price of the car. If you do the tests above, and try it again when the temperature is different and it seems solid, if the price is under $3000 to $4000, you might not justify a $100 to $150 inspection fee by a mechanic. Be sure the mechanic has a good reputation and is reasonable. Shop hard for a good mechanic you like. We are not very religious but have found a couple of those guys to be pretty honest.
The seller will have to be willing for you to have the car tested. If they balk a lot, be cautious. Don't expect it to be allowed over about 15 or 20 miles away. If the car is near $8000-10,000, then you can be more insistent.
FINAL BARGAINING: AND VERIFICATION OF TITLE, OWNERSHIP, NUMBERS, LIENS
BE CAREFUL: There are crooks out there who will saddle you with a vehicle for which you can not get a clear title. DO NOT PAY FOR A CAR UNTIL THE TITLE IS VERIFIED as real, correct numbers and name, in the seller's name, unencumbered or you know who has the note or lien.
Have a handy calculator or note pad and start with your known blue book prices and that of ads you have seen. Deduct about 20% as your starting point and adjust according to condition and needs for tires, soon inspection, brakes, minor repairs or A/C repair (might not even be possible). Add and deduct as you go, even adding or deducting for how well the engine and transmission work. At the end of inspection, add the adjustments to the starting price and begin dickering.
"I don't know" is often the best true softener-upper.
Negotiating is a matter of wearing the seller down but not irritating them.
Asking them why they are selling is a possible way to find motivation or need. Some people are sentimental and want a good owner, like for a pet. Usually they just don't need it, need money or bought a new car. If they are young and dumb (synonymous) and bought a new car they can't afford, then you are in luck, especially if female seller. A male seller may have abused the car if they seem like a partier or aggressive type. Look for evidence of racing and talk about performance issues with a guy to learn about their driving. To your question about how it handles at speed or in emergencies, you want to hear "I don't know, I don't drive fast".
Taking a total of over an hour and then acting a little non-chalant or even not too interested can help. Saying "I don't know... " a few times. Asking "will you take any less for it?" is usually good. If they say they have some people interested trying to raise the money, or gone to get the money, try to discern their credibility and demeanor, whether true. Ask if the others made a firm offer and how much. Watch their eyes. A comment like "well money talks, hot air walks" means you have money now and a lot of people are talkers but coming up with money. If that is you, (UH OH!) try to figure a way to pay for it, to get financing (which you should have arranged nearly already) or, as a last resort offer a "deposit" to hold it a few days, which may turn out to be a week or two (that is another matter), with a receipt for that in writing. Don't make false promises. That is fraud. If you aren't sure, say "about", approximately" and so on. Try not to have a "forfeit" clause in a deposit.
Whether you chance leaving as not quite willing to pay that price depends on how good the car is, how much you have shopped and learned, whether they have other prospects going to get money, and whether you sense the seller is getting tired (like a fish on the line).
Actually driving off and waiting a couple of hours.. can work. Calling back and asking if they thought any more about your offer.. and then saying you might try "one more offer" .. can work.
If they are irritated at offers, they will say so before you attempt again. They would be adament.. saying. "No, sorry ,, I have to have $X price.". That usually really means.. you say. Well., gee.. I wish I could.. but I only have $Y. Please think about it??" sweetly. (works much better if you are a sweet or somewhat pitiful female).
Don't forget TAXES. What you put on the bill of sale is up to you. We would suggest a standard type of separate Bill of Sale, giving: total cash purchase price, deposit amount, that deposit goes toward total purchase price, balance and date of deposit. (If you are a buyer needing time, the less said on the B of S the better, except those things, and no final due date to pay in full.), and that seller will deliver title free and clear (fee simple title) immediately when the balance is paid in full.
We believe that final"closing" should be done at the seller's bank or note house where any lien note is held, and the transaction transfers title to you then and there, with forms for the vehicle registration office carried by you or mailed by the bank. Be sure you have a knowledgable notary or people at a the used car dealer where the note was owed, to help. Some honorarium fee for helping is normal, such as $10 for notaries or more for a car dealer helping. (suggest offering $20 and then $10 if refused)
The main thing to be sure is that the VIN, Vehicle Identification numbers MATCH, and that there is no unknown note against the car if a seller claims it is clear. If clear, the title is different and shows no lien. Call the state titles office and ask who the owner is by VIN number, or otherwise verify.
DO NOT GIVE A HOT CHECK for a car. That is a fast way to go to jail for fraud and theft by check. Don't make promise to pay by a date and fail by a long way, or the seller may sue you in small claims court or complain to the police of fraud. If you aren't sure, don't say a particular date you will complete paying the balance or picking up the car, except "about". No written date to complete sale is usually in the buyer's favor in a deposit.
Basically be honest and verify key information of the seller, especially in divorce cases or where a partnership has failed. Someone can have a partnership business claim against a vehicle without having a registered lien. Do not feel sorry for some young mother with a baby who has excuses for vague ownership or tags not being "quite right". Those pitiful people have ripped us off before and may do so to you. Be careful.
Links to car buying sites. Links to financing used cars.Summary:
Avoid the draw to vehicles that are expensive to repair with poor frequency of repair records in Consumer Guides. Know what to look for. Know the type and year models of cars that are reliable. Take your list and follow the instructions as closely as possible, but BE CAREFULL DRIVING an UNFAMILIAR VEHICLE when distracted by testing and listening. If you only test 2/3 of the car buying checklist items here, you will still be way ahead of the average buyer.
Good luck and happy hunting!! You are on your way to really having a reliable car to depend on, and that usually won't cost as much to fix if something breaks.
DISCLAIMER and TERMS OF USE OF SITE: By your use of this site, you agree to to this disclaimer and hold the author, his associates and company harmless for all circumstances related hereto whatsoever. Use of this site and information is solely AT YOUR OWN RISK. This list and our Buying Guide Checklist is NOT a guarantee of any kind whatsoever, but merely the educated opinion of the author and nothing more. You agree and understand by use of any information herein provided that testing a car can be dangerous and involves driving an unfamiliar vehicle while trying to do more than just drive. You agree to be very careful around any running engine or moving parts. The vehicle can lurch if not careful. Do your own due diligence and verify everything. No one can guarantee performance of a used vehicle without thorough personal inspection, and a real guarantee is provided by a warranty company, a form of insurance. We do not sell or offer any warranty nor insurance. We suggest that if you want a warranty, you buy one from one of the companies that offer warranties, if avaialble.
